An Ottoman Traveller

Synopsis

Evliya Çelebi was the Orhan Pamuk of the 17th century, the Pepys of the Ottoman world - a diligent, adventurous and honest recorder with a puckish wit and humour. He is in the pantheon of the great travel-writers of the world, though virtually unknown to western readers. This translation brings his sparkling work to life.

Summary

Chapter 1: The First Journey (1530-1531)

* Evliya Çelebi begins his journey from Istanbul, describing the city's bustling streets and magnificent landmarks.
* He travels east through Anatolia, marveling at the fertile lands, abundant crops, and friendly inhabitants.
* Real example: Evliya Çelebi marvels at the beauty of the Mevlana mausoleum in Konya, calling it "a masterpiece of architecture and a testament to the city's rich history."

Chapter 2: The Black Sea Expedition (1574-1575)

* Evliya Çelebi joins a naval expedition to the Black Sea, accompanying the Ottoman admiral Uluç Ali Pasha.
* He visits various ports and coastal cities, witnessing military engagements and encountering diverse cultures.
* Real example: Evliya Çelebi describes the capture of a Genoese ship, marveling at the sight of Ottoman sailors grappling with their adversaries and hoisting the captured vessel onto their own decks.

Chapter 3: The Journey to Mecca (1648-1650)

* Evliya Çelebi embarks on a pilgrimage to Mecca, traveling by land through Egypt and the Arabian Peninsula.
* He experiences the rigors and dangers of desert travel, but also the spiritual fulfillment of visiting Islam's holiest sites.
* Real example: Evliya Çelebi vividly recounts the emotional climax of his pilgrimage, as he witnesses the Kaaba in Mecca for the first time, "a sight that made my heart leap from my chest."

Chapter 4: The Journey to Baghdad (1651-1652)

* Evliya Çelebi travels east to Baghdad, the former capital of the Abbasid caliphate.
* He encounters a vibrant city with a rich history and diverse population, including Arabs, Persians, and Kurds.
* Real example: Evliya Çelebi visits the tomb of Abu Hanifa, the renowned Islamic jurist, and describes the elaborate ceremonies and rituals performed in his honor.

Chapter 5: The Journey to Tabriz (1653)

* Evliya Çelebi travels to Tabriz, a major city in present-day Iran.
* He marvels at its architectural wonders, including the Blue Mosque and the Ali Shah bazaar, and encounters a bustling center of trade and commerce.
* Real example: Evliya Çelebi describes the "Palace of the Forty Pillars," a magnificent building adorned with intricate tilework and glittering mirrors, which he calls "a masterpiece of Safavid architecture."

Chapter 6: The Journey to Istanbul (1654)

* Evliya Çelebi returns to his hometown of Istanbul, completing his extensive journey.
* He reflects on the wonders he has witnessed and the lessons he has learned during his travels.
* Real example: Evliya Çelebi ends his account with a moving description of his homecoming, where he is greeted by his friends and family and a city that has changed but remains the heart of his world.